Drive axles Traction Avant

First the original shafts were neatly overhauled but when installing the 4-speed gearbox, double homokinetic drive shafts were placed at the same time!
Above: At the time of purchase, Below: At the MOT inspection
Above: After replacing the old drive shafts with the drive shafts with double homokinetic couplings.
Mounting of the new axles, at which point really everything has to come loose…
Above: The old axle

Traction Avant with electronic ignition

Really dredging, I don’t have another word for it: The old ignition points with the corresponding ignition coil. 

I have tried 3 different configurations of points and coils at 6 Volt and the combination of 6 Volt battery, starter motor and points has always caused me misery, both with cold and warm starting.

So I built in an electronic one, and not a 123 ignition. just an English one, especially for 6 Volt OR 12 Volt. 

First built in with the 6 Volt installation and that worked perfectly. 

Still working fine today, and now at 12 Volt.

The old ignition
The old ignition

Aluminum repair

The long-stroke ID-motor I once got in Zwolle from a (I thought 56’er) ID that the driver had driven for a short time.

The modified engine and gearbox were later placed in my Traction Avant and both work very well!

The engine and gearbox were undamaged when I picked them up after disassembly so I took them home in the trailer behind the DS.

But–no motorbike underneath of course so somewhere on the road suddenly a lot of oil in the trailer….

A lot of fiddling with cloths and stuff, and when I got home the drain of the crankcase pan appeared to be torn in.

Only much later I removed the crankcase pan and placed the original TA crankcase pan on the engine.

From the engine I shortened the crankshaft, changed the camshaft and so on.

But I got stuck with a broken aluminum crankcase.

At a webshop I bought a set to solder aluminium and I started with it.

Since I can also solder with tin and copper, so how difficult can it be?

Well,… There was more to it than I thought.

To start with, the workpiece, in my case the crankcase pan, must be at the right temperature and should not cool down too quickly, especially after soldering.  Because then the connection of solder to aluminium will tear apart again.

In addition, all parts to be soldered with the stainless steel brush have to be completely cleaned, otherwise the solder mass (rod) will not stick together.

Use a clean flame for the soldering work.  It can be done with a blue flame from the gas burner, preferably a directed flame.

And then … Well, see below the result.

The soldering is stronger than aluminium, so that’s okay.  It is leakproof and can easily handle the temperature of the crankcase oil…

Project  successfull!

 

Citroen ID engine in Traction Avant

In the TA I have had 3 engines since 2006:
1) The original TA engine which turned out to be torn on the corner of the lower engine;
2) An ID19P long stroke lower engine which I have further assembled with the parts of the original engine such as TA head, TA crankcase pan, etc.
3) The final DW long stroke engine, including the ID head, carburettor, manifold, crankcase pan and modified (=shortened) crankshaft.

Below you can see how I used the TA head, crankcase pan, oil pump, camshaft, push rods, water pump, etc. at option 2) to be able to use the ID19P block to drive the Traction again.

Above you can see the first replacement engine that worked in my TA for about 4 years. It is an ID19P motor that fits perfectly in my Traction. I transferred the head from the Traction engine, the camshaft as well. 

Unfortunately the oil pressure of this engine was in my opinion too low to drive reliably.  Probably too much worn anyway.

In the picture below you can see this engine with the TA-head on it and with the 3-speed gearbox on it.

At option 3), so the second engine I bought together with the 4-speed gearbox, a DW engine, the crankshaft had to be shortened because I wanted the vibration damper removed, see pictures below:

Above: Crankshaft of the ID19 engine in  my Lathe

Above: The right part is already pretty done, the thread has already been cut just to the right of the (to fit) camshaft gears and the remainder to the right of the thread can now be cut off.

Above: Just to be on the safe side: Oilpump revised

And replaced the aluminium crankcase pan that was torn during transport with one that I still had lying around…

Later on, I repaired the broken crankcase with aluminum solder, perfect job!  

Almost ready for the testrun, you can clearly see that it is not a TA head, just an exhaust manifold on this side.  This engine was perfect, both in terms of compression and oil pressure. 

Even with a warm engine it was fine!   

Under this engine an aluminium crankcase pan was placed so that the original oil pump could be mounted again.

The garage

After the Traction was ready, I started at isolating the garage.

First 3 cm hard insulation against the half stone wall, then 7 mm waterproof plywood upright against it and every 60 cm a standing strip for the shelf supports.  Then everything is made white with latex.  I didn’t insulate the ceiling.  I did insulate the garage door.

The previous owner made water, energy and central heating connections in the garage. The C.V. runs in winter on frost-free with a thermostat tap.  When I work in the garage in winter, the central heating radiator ensures that it is reasonable to do.

DOT3 in my Traction Avant

The Traction Avant is not often used.

Each time the level of my brake fluid was at minimum when I picked up the car, while I had put the car away with maximum level.

The reason appeared to be that on almost all parts where the original lean mineral brake fluid could flow through a brake cup under gravity pressure, this actually happened. The result was a lot of dirt on the floor and an empty reservoir.

The residual pressure that keeps the rubbers neatly closed, falls away after a certain time and then this problem arises.

The solution was to upgrade to DOT3 brake fluid. DOT 3 has some lubricating properties which in my experience keeps the seal between cylinder walls and brake cups closed.

I’ll be using it this way from 2015 and for the past 4 years I haven’t lost a drop of DOT3.

An additional advantage is that because of the lubricating effect the brake pistons don’t get stuck anymore due to the long standstill in winter.

It was quite a job to get the old fluid out completely, flush it with methylated spirit, blow it through crosswise until all methylated spirit has been removed at each endpoint. Then fill with DOT3 and seriously bleed.

DOT 4 is certainly not a good idea, at least not with the original rubbers. The additions in DOT4 cause the original rubbers to swell.

If you want to use DOT4, replace all rubbers and cups of the wheel brake and master cylinder with after market (NO old stock use) rubbers and cups.

Cheers!

Citroen Traction Avant 1st MOT (2006)

First MOT EVER (2006)

After 13 years of storage at the previous owner, the first MOT was quite a challenge. 

In the Netherlands MOT , in Dutch called ‘APK’, became gradually obliged from 1985.  So, given the history of the car, an APK or MOT has never yet happened.

And- besides the MOT issues the car appeared to have a non-moving engine, broken gearbox, broken exhaust, brakes, stub axle covers and the like, there was also a lot to be done on the electricity.

June 2006: In any case, there was a lot of visible sheet metal damage and…, the engine was stuck, the brakes didn’t work, not even the handbrake.

The front bumper was in the cab, the chrome on this car seemed to be completely exhausted, including the associated rust marks. In the boot that could hardly be opened there should be some spare material left.

Included in the sale were new front bumper mounts, because the front bumper was completely loose from the bumper mounts.

The good news: The bottom and the adhesion to the engine mounts at the front of the car was okay, the doors were good and above all: the bodywork was hard all around.

Nice detail was that the tubes on all visible parts were provided with the familiar small plastic caps, which shows that this car has ever had a complete anti-corrosion treatment, including injected tubular chassis. Also the underside of the chassis is completely covered with a thick layer of mud, possibly ML, Dinitrol or underseal. This layer is peeling off in different places.

In any case, it didn’t prevent the fenders from rusting through. At the places where the water splashes against the screens while driving, they have rotted well…

Anyway, the sale is closed and on July 1st I went to the previous owner, with a car ambulance and my purchase price.

The car is neatly registered in the Netherlands and was built in 1955 but only later imported into the Netherlands.

And… There you go, for the first time, with my own Traction Avant.

It was very hot and there were quite a few old people on the road on Sunday morning. I saw myself riding it. The first striking feature of this car is its respectable length, which leaves little room for tinkering at the front and rear of the car.

The garage is 5.3 meters long and 3.3. meters wide. The width is good, but lengthwise I moved the stuff in the back of the garage to a different place. The idea is to keep as much rubbish as possible out of the garage for the time being.

And… here we go: The first inspection! First we have to spray the release sprayer in the spark plug holes that have already been removed from the spark plugs, let it work in for a few minutes and hang it on the crank handle….

Repeated action and then injected every day for a week and hung on the pendulum, next to that rocking back and forth in 3rd gear. Nothing at all.

Expert advice requested. Advice is: Leave it for a few weeks with a lot of rust dissolver in the holes and occasionally a little movement in its gear.

I’m curious to see if this has given me some relief after my holiday, where I’m writing this now, so let’s have a look at the other things.

All moving body parts are treated with a rust solvent because everything was more or less stuck. That worked anyway.

Found some interesting things in the trunk of the car, so I now own the following extra:

Stove to be placed in front of the car (to be connected to the cooling circuit) with covers and air hoses;

3 full carburettors with intact membranes and nozzles etcetera;

Fully used workshop manual;

Oil bearing booklet for the 11 and 15;

Full gasket set including new head gasket

A large number of bolts and nutsHoses for everything

Clignoteur / lamp holders and defective caps

LampsRelay

The missing wooden window crank button from left rear

Sleeping bag

Flooring and so on

After careful selection, my junkbox was packed and I had 2 boxes with possibly useful parts left in the future.In the cabin

I discovered that the original upholstery under the red ribcoard covers still looks pretty good.

The lining of the doors with the holes in the control handles is different. I had already noticed that the window of the right front door is only attached to the control in the door with one attachment point.

The ventilation flap wouldn’t open either.

After careful study I discovered that this was just sprayed with lacquer. After a good touch and feel I started with the removal of all steel filler.

Apparently this car was once taken care of by a putty expert and after that it was mostly sprayed.

After removing the filler I was left with a body that didn’t really have that many holes in it, and certainly no holes in the wrong places. The holes in the body can be easily welded on with new sheet metal. That will happen. The left front mudguard looked like a disappointment because there was a lot of filler that had cracked at the bottom of the tip.

After removing the decorative point and removing all putty, a nice aluminium support was visible underneath the point where the putty was hanging on. Long live the doing-it-yourself-work! That goes off nicely. Order a new point, weld on and that’s it. This also brings back the shape stability of the entire front fender. Now you can push and move the middle part up and down a good centimetre vertically. there are no holes in the trunk, a lot of rust has been removed but all in all I just removed a quarter of the filling from my dustpan and can.

All rubbish has been removed from the inside and the first dents have been dented with the spherical hammer and counterstamp.

Then at least the model is neatly back in, so let’s look for a good rust converter because I don’t have the illusion anymore to make a new car out of it. Preservation now seems to be the best option for both the bottom and the superstructure.  On the internet I’ve seen a good tool with which you can edit the entire substructure by first cleaning everything, removing as much rust as possible and then applying this tool to it. This makes a connection with the corrosion on the steel, then seals it completely. My dream was to make the car bare and to kick the coque, but I’ll leave that for now. First I have to see if an MOT is in it in the long run. First I have to go on with the visible part of the outside: All rust spots were made bare with a putty knife and brushed with the steel brush on the drill. Then, with old-fashioned Noverox lubricated on top of it, it won’t rust for a while.

On such a gray car you know where you need to fix something, because the Noverox where it is corrosion forms a black part. The grill, bonnet, between the engine and the front wings, the front wings, doors, doorposts, gutters, rear window, suitcase, rear mudguards and so on have all been treated and all in all it was not that bad. In the meantime I tried to start with a battery once to get the engine loose, but you get it already: No result at all.

I wonder if the car was parked with the engine running. Just take a good look at the oil in the crankcase. I don’t know if you can draw any conclusions from this after about 13 to 20 years but the oil was at the right level and looked dark and used. Not like I know from my old Renault after a leaky head gasket: all white. Anyway, if the engine doesn’t come loose, it will have to come out anyway. Removing the head without further disassembly is no use, but on a closer inspection tour again. Apparently the previous tinkererer has already fixed up the front train because it is completely in the orange lead mixture, the kind that is so handy but that you can’t buy nowadays because of the environmental aspects.The carburettor was removed and the right 2 studs of the inlet/outlet manifold were turned off completely incompetently just in the head. That’s another nice job for the drill and the print set.

Broken off studs in cylinder head;  Fixed but in the rust remover. I might as well remove the manifolds and put all new studs in.

OK, that way you’ll get your chores done, but good.

If the engine has to be removed, the manifolds have to be removed anyway.  Maybe I’ll replace the valve seats for harder ones because of the unleaded gasoline, but then I’ll have to continue the inspection: All the original things you wouldn’t expect from a craft car are still there, like an original 2 litre oil can with mounting bracket and spring on the inside of the left bonnet, so just fill and charge the 6 Volt battery. There’s just a little bit of life left in it. Enough for the horns and lighting. But the clignoteur doesn’t work or just isn’t there. Just have to check the chassis- and coquenumber to see what the year and month of manufacture is. Well a nice detail is that the radiator is renewed, at least the inner part and that the original operation of the roll screen for the radiator still works flawlessly. After the necessary rust and careful help of the roller gauze worked very neatly as it was originally intended, then you do not want to have a thermostat anymore! To the parts dealer and there they had indeed still original brake fluid for TA and ID / DS early years. Was errug old bottle but still purchased. Price was still in guilders with old VAT rate but with what is yet to come I can use an old price! As long as the engine is still soaking in with the rust remover I will continue my discovery where I will restore everything I encounter as much as possible to its original state. First you have to apply the brakes. I’m still on an inspection tour under the car and that looks very tight. At all possible places with my priest and putty knife black sludge was removed but everywhere neat steel appears. It seems as if a whole new base plate has been put in it or that the car has just been very well maintained in this respect. Anyway, it’s a boost I need because with only negative messages it doesn’t get very far either. By the way, I still have to order new license plates, at least one because on the front there’s one where the plastic letters have largely disappeared. And oh well, my license plate part 1 is almost torn and a part of the paper has perished. I don’t know which text I’m missing but the serial number and stuff is still on it. I will send a request asap to the RDW for replacement of part 1. Luckily you don’t really need that when transferring, at least not at the second office of post offices like where I was.

Original license paper(s) (from 1970, import date in NL) part 1

In any case, I’ll cover the door panels, because that doesn’t look like it with those holes in it.

Then I can take care of the window mechanisms right away. I still have to figure out how to remove the door handle and window handle, but I have such a handy workshop manual for that which doesn’t contain it. So let’s have a good look at what the trick consists of: A hidden spring or just pulling hard….30-7-2006Sunday, time for reflection…Last week the tumbler shaft was removed, you never know…The engine is still stuck. By now the brakes at the rear in terms of piping have been replaced from steel to copper, at least where that was bad. Eventually it turned out to be only the pipe from left rear wheel to right rear wheel. It is attached to the rear axle with 3 clamps. Of course there will be leaks under the middle clamp, in the middle of the rear axle.overall condition of the rear floor is okay, with the exception of the left noose of the petrol tank, which is stuck with rope. The new way to loosen the engine is as follows: Take Carterpan out while the engine is still in it. If the pan can be removed it is important to remove the connecting rods one by one (first remove the oil pump?) and make the pistons moveable. I have the time so I should be able to do it this way, as long as the crankcase pan can be removed while the engine is still in the car.Be reluctant to remove the head. When I checked the water level was still above the cylinder head, so I assume that the head gasket doesn’t leak and so I’d better stay away from the head. If I can’t get the pistons etc loose with the engine in the car, there’s still the option to remove the head and remove the pistons including the connecting rods and wet bushings. First you have to notice of course but the condition remains that the crankcase has to be removed with the engine still in the car, I have removed the cover of the front doors. There was a lot of rust in the front right door AND at this door the window mechanism is broken. Must have a new rail in the bottom window. The rest is OK. I wonder if such a rail is for sale separately. It looks like a clamping rail around the steel edge at the bottom of the window. I also mounted the bumper supports and the bumper last week. Key cap 41 and just hang on the coquemoirs. Takes two hours to get both of them loose. Good stuff that rust solver. In the meantime all the gunk a bit removed from the triangles and other parts that go to the front wheels. I also found 12 lubrication points that I lubricated right away. It wasn’t too bad that I didn’t have to put a lot in it to make the gunk look like anything else. That’s a good sign because there was still some compound in the stub axles and bushes. Thought about what to do.Carterpan removed.

Took off the crankcase pan;

Checked the bottom of the cylinderbusses. At the front 3 cylinders the release fluid was running along the pistons, the rear one was completely dry.

Bottom-inner 3rd cilincer that was nice and oil-like

The bottom-inner 4th cylinder was now still firmly attachedControl rod of rear piston loosened, with the bolts still in the conrod.

The crankshaft moves when pressure is applied.

The first 3 pistons are loosened, the rear piston is fixed again, the water is drained out via a drain plug in the side of the block, the head was already removed, the head was removed including the water pump.

Disassembled cylinder head incl. water pump Cylinders and pistons AFTER the release operation, just before mounting the new cylinder head And yes, the cause of all misery: Leaky head gasket in the far right corner (as seen from the driver) at the rear (4th) cylinder, so rust in this cylinder but luckily the piston is almost in the bottom. Clean but look at the damage.Cylinder wall slightly rusted but no holes or corrosion. With 400 waterproof sandpaper you can gently remove the rust. Wet cans secured with rings and bolts so they don’t come loose by accident when the pistons are moving. Bottom of the cylinders sprayed with rust dissolver.With a block of soft round wood and a copper fist we very carefully tapped the 4th piston down.  Oil on the pistons and from the bottom the piston with a block of soft wood gently with a copper fist the 4th piston upwards.  Repeated this action a couple of times, where after the first time everything went noticeably smoother and then turned via the starting crank until everything went smoothly.After a good cleaning of the piston-tops, the cylinder head, valves and cleaning of the block and head where the gasket is to be placed, new head gasket smeared with oil and mounted, head on top and mounted.Tumbler shaft mounted, push rods mounted, valves set to cold on 0.4 mm.New crankcase pan gaskets mounted. Carterpan on again, manifold on again, that had to be taken off because the previous keyaar had broken 3 studs. So all new studs in and mounted again. I had left the water pump at the head, so that was all right.I put on ignition, put spark plugs in, bought water in the cooling system.bought the battery, 6 Volt of course, and connected.And… just start it.But only puffs and no nice roaring engine noise at all.well, just think about it….  What about it again, you need carburation, ignition and… Compression! The first 2 worked. So let’s measure the compression…  And yes, with cylinder 1 it was already a problem with compression of 1 bar.  Of course, such an engine never runs with it.  The 2nd one was a bit better and number 3 and 4 both 3 bar, so let’s put some oil on it (the pistons) and measure it again.  That means a problem with the cylinder head.  Head taken off, luckily I now know how to do that. Head made completely bald, all protruding parts removed and put in the back of the car.

Water pump (2 nice green painted parts) and manifold

When I bought a revision head from CTA, I could also drive on unleaded gasoline.

Still in plastic packed overhaul-cylinderhead

Head at home with new gasket mounted (and water pump, manifold, rocker shaft, push rods, valves, carburettor, etc…, splash of gasoline poured in the carburettor hole) and… Start in one go!

Moving images! Fuel pump connected, fuel in the tank, filter in between, start and… Carburettor adjusted to idle speed. Runs fantastic stable slowly, let it run for an hour and let it cool down.  Spark plugs removed and compression measured.  Each cylinder between 6 and 6,5 Bar.  LightingAll lights checked and replaced where necessary, clignoteur mounted. First test drive On Sunday morning the time had come: Nice and quiet on the road so let’s see how it goes. By now the car is insured because that’s very handy when it goes to the MOT in a minute, driving is possible, the clutch bites a lot. Shifting goes well if you do it very slowly. The second gear makes a strange noise. Braking is just scary: In addition to the different sounds, the car pulls all the way to the left. When I get back, I decided to do the following first: Brakes, gearbox/gears, clutch plates, clutch clutch cleaners, diff shafts oil seals, diff shafts and short shaft nuts were found to be loose on the differential. Oops, luckily I made a short test drive….I bought a brake wheel after-tractor because with my universal tractors I can’t do it. They are very hard on the inside. No pits or anything like that.  New cups and dust caps mounted. Pipes are OK. New liners mounted.

Lining of left front wheel largely simply disappeared; remainder worn out to halfway the copper rivets

Brake lining very thin Test drive made.  Halfway more and more noise when the bucket is in 2 state. Further only driven in 1 and 3 and quickly went home. Brakes are doing well. Still has to do the rear wheels in terms of brakes. gearbox jack under crankcase (with a lot of stop wood) and jack under clutch housing All removed first: bonnet, grill, horns and radiator guard, radiator, fan fan, pulley of the drive shaft for water pump e.e., subframe.

Before the major disassembly operation of the bucket, clutch, drive.

When the gearbox cover was removed, 2 teeth of the 2nd gear cog on the primary shaft were disappeared. OK. A bit of a disappointment. I found both the missing teeth at the bottom of the gearbox. 1 is old damage and 1 is test drive damage. Sprocket ordered from the TAN club 2nd hand.

That’s how bad it can be in a gearbox. Play on the bearings measured and is all within standard. To remove primary shaft must remove crown wheel. Entire ‘clock’ removed.

Beautiful original green painted

10-9-2006: Replaced the clutch plates. The clutch housing has been removed, cleaned and sprayed green.  Replace the difficult M7 bolts next to the drive shaft for the water pump and alternator with Imbus M8. The 2 holes in the clutch housing drilled to 8 mm and the thread in the engine block drilled to 7 mm and tapped on M8 metric.

Cross-shaped piece after thorough cleaning, reusable as a paperweight

The bearings are cleaned completely and compounded. New spring that retracts thrust bearing mounted because it was gone. Pressure group cleaned with compressed air. Clutch surfaces cleaned of pressure group and flywheel. New clutch plates mounted.

Clutch housing mounted.

17-9-2006: 2nd gear sprocket mounted again,

Primary axle with mounted 2nd gear, above the axle is the synchronizer and on the right the 3rd gear. On the left just above the axle the gearwheel for 1st or reverse.Primary axle in it, pinpoint clearance set at 1.3 mm between pinion and satellite housing by removing 2 shims and at the same time inserting the gasket on the front of the gearbox of secondary axle.

Pignon.

Front of the gearbox with (top) mounted primary axle and (bottom) secondary pinion axle.

Shim and bearing housing secondary shaft , Shims and feeler gauges for measuring pinion clearance
20-9-2006: Crown wheel play set at 0.2 mm by means of the settings of the differential thrust bearings.

Measurement practice in my brother’s garage

And the theory from the original workshop manual Differential parts mounted with new retaining rings. Gaskets fitted between the clutch housing and gearbox, gearbox fitted,

Sliding the bucket onto the clutch housing. The short drive axles are still loose in relation to the differential. Connections between diffusers and drive shafts connected with new M8 locknuts. Then everything is reassembled: Flywheel, dynamo, water pump pulley, shifting rods, protection plate, gearbox cover with new gasket, oil refilled, all with new bolts and nuts mounted.radiator mounted, car cleaned and stripped of all grease and grease.All rust removed, Fertan applied, rinsed and gray Bodyschutz applied to all parts that I can no longer access later.

Car mounted so far that the engine is running again and everything can be tried outThe people of the RDW have very neatly picked it up and made a new one without additional costs against return of the previous version. Nice test drive on a very sunny Friday afternoon 22 September 2006. Thought of everything but still forgot to bring gasoline. The tank was leaking and so I stopped after about 4 kilometers. Luckily a helpful brother who arrived on the bike with 5 liters of spare fuel. Put some gasoline in it, start up again and go go go!

On the way I lost some oil because the valve cover gasket was made of rubber: such a beautiful new one, about 2 centimetres longer. The fuel tank leaked so badly that it completely emptied out, and I drove home with a hose in the spare tank. The positive news: Braking, steering, (dis)clutching and shifting like a sunshine. Road handling fine, no strange noises from the engine or gearbox, etc. Still have to check the carburettor for acceleration pump and sprinklers because idle is fine, full throttle is fine but in between it’s a bump and that’s a shame. Meanwhile the air horn has been repaired and that’s a nice way to get back on the road. In the meantime all instruments and control lights have been replaced, the cockpit lights have been replaced and a real steering switch has been installed for the driver. Replaced the light in the original switch.Antenna mounted for the 6 Volt Philips car radio which also works nice and original.

Inside with the included ribcoard (red) seat covers and the original upholstery of course, with here and there a wear spot.

Back-side view in the garage

Side-view in the garage 2-10 to 9-10-2006:

Rear brake linings, wheel brake cylinders, replace lines

Repaired airhorn

Oil pressure gauge and water temperature gauge or sensors mounted

Front and rear brakes replace flex parts
Hole in inner shield at the right rear, welded closed
Replace carburettor because car jolts and jolts when idling and accelerating

Hole in floor in front right : plate point welded
New flexible hoses for vacuum advance fitted WITH clamp on ignition connection

Defective noose under petrol tank repaired and petrol tank replaced

Replace Exhaust
Towbar mounted

Ventilation grille rusted and temporarily painted
Steering wheel replaced by newly purchased original steering wheel
Bottom side of the car should be cleared, Fertan on it, rinsed and sprayed in grey bodyschutz

Reverse lamp, cabling and switch installed

Fog lamp, cabling and switch installed 
Washing, colouring and reapplying: red chair covers

Original heater connection mounted on radiator
Replacing windscreen wipers
New power distributor complete with socket, new spark plugs, ignition cables

Leather dust covers steering system mounted
Replace the rear flashing lamps and fit 25 Watt lamps.
Lemon plate mounted
New ignition coil
Body repainted on rusty parts
Upholstery floor for front seats fitted (temporary)
Valves set
Inflammation set

MOT done on 12-10-2006; NOGO
Actions taken on the basis of MOT (14-10 to 30/10/2006):
B41572011

001: Identification number 11B 415027 found on a coque (original is therefore broken upside down and difficult to read)!

111: Flashlight caps turn signals for changing from white to orange

BEFORE

AFTER

502: Replace 4 pieces of grease bags stub axles L+R at the bottom + at the top.
112: Headlight front left replaced by new glass and a new (56 years old still new in original box, cost 109 Euro) mirror, both headlights are notified at the same time.
801: Replace the right rear wheel with a spare wheel and the brakes at the right rear are loosened slightly due to a slight acceleration.

502: Bronze bushings in triangle weld looks like steel on steel but this is original bronze on iron so no action is needed, there is no play on the bushings, but there is some lateral play within the norm. Only a lot of lubrication is needed

702: Steering balls L+R grease (steel+rolled rubber ring) replaced, lubricated
702: Steering balls L+R adjusted for > 1 mm clearance

Replace and adjust the end stop (adjustable part) of the left hand side steering section.

Exhaust with extra support attached to gearbox

Driving on Sunday 15-10-2006

Ordered 13-11-2006:

Air filter rubber carburettor 11D

Carburettor repair set Solex 32/34 PBIC4 pieces

Fuseekogel key 11CV

Pedal rubber brake/clutch

Spatboard piping, gloss black Ø7mm

Spraybox window frames light grey

Dynamo alternating current 7.4V/35Amp + support

Spressure regulator electronic 7V

Later still done (2007):

Body where necessary spraying in gray (original color)

Upholstery and felt bottom and side / under dashboard is ordered 5-10-2006 at CTA

Purchases inner decorative caps chrome

Tank cap with lock

6 to 12 Volt converter

Better sound, radio and CD with MP3

heater mounted (Clayton) and windscreen heater connected

Fenders fully repaired and painted black

Restoration of the body shell plate in original color

Printed seat/bench upholstery and door cladding panels has been purchased, must be installed again, after all rust has been removed and the roof cladding has been removed

Ready to drive – Completely finished but still working on the upholstery and the fenders. In this picture the holes in the mudguards have been provisionally closed, in which a few times 200 kilometres have been driven in a row without any problems.Total driven about 2000 kilometres until April 2007.From the beginning of April 2007 we started to refurbish the outside of the car. See the next pictures.  In addition, some work to do on the brakes because the return is too stiff, causing the brakes to heat up in traffic jams.  The front wheel bearings also need to be adjusted because there is some wheel play.  The mounted thermostat does its job well but because of 1 splash of hot water in the radiator, the final level in the radiator is about 5 centimeters below the top edge. This turns out to be sufficient in practice. Despite the thermostat, the radiator roller hat has proved necessary in the winter.PS: 1 small hole has been drilled in the thermostat in order to keep the circulation running a little bit. The welding and spraying work10 until 30 April 2007:Mudguards disassembled.First everything as bare as possible, Fertan on top of it, let it work out and rinsed off.Made bald around the holes. Bad parts ground out.1 Replacement part welded in (point left for mudguard)For all parts to be replaced, knocked out body steel of 1.5 mm, welded in and welded in (MIG)Grinded where necessaryBrushed with INOX, both inside and outside, against rust of the welding workPlastered with 2K, sanded in model with 120 and 180Spray puttyFine putty, flat-grinded with 600 and 800Black 2K lacquer on it.Mudguards with new piping fitted.

After the mudguards it’s the turn of the body, all the rusted spots cleared, Fertan welded on, where necessary, and then polished.then putty, sanding, stuffing, sanding, etc.Spray putty on and then the (most) original colour on top of it.reassemble everything, polish it and then drive it proudly! That all sounds more simple than it has taken about 3 months time anyway…

July 2007: After the paint job on the body it was enough, the trunk, hood and grill will be replaced next time. All rust on the grill, trunk and hood has been preserved and the bare spots have been painted as a temporary measure.The headlight brackets have been replaced by aluminium polished brackets.After spraying the trunk, hood and grill, the replacement of the interior will take place…Probably in the winter of 2007/2008.

LPG (GPL) in my Traction Avant

Traction Avant: Upgrade to 4-gear gearbox

Installation of a Citroën ID/DS 4-speed gearbox in a Citroën Traction Avant

Here you can read how I discovered the best way to equip my Traction Avant 11BN that originally has 3 gears with 4 gears, due to damage and shame.

The Citroën Traction Avant has originally 3 gears of which the first gear is not synchronized.

In my opinion this gearbox is the biggest problem to drive this car in modern traffic.

From 2007 to 2016 I have worked intermittently on the adaptation of an old Citroën ID/DS19 4-speed gearbox to work in my Traction Avant 11 BN.

As basis for this project I used a Citroën ID donor gearbox from a 1964 Citroën ID19.
The ID 4 gearbox has full synchronization on the 4 forward gears but doesn’t fit in the available width of my Traction Avant.

The process of alterations and adjustments to the ID gearbox and the installation in my Traction Avant is shown in this post, added with an attached photo collage!

Above you can see the rough end result with which I have already (2018) been able to cover a few thousand kilometers.

In the end it was a very rewarding and valuable project.

Driving the TA is now perfect, shifting back and up is smooth and the car behaves nicely.

An important advantage of the new gearbox is that the engine makes much less revs when driving at cruising speed.

Above you can see the overview of the donor longstroke ID19 engine with the 4-speed gearbox.

At the time of purchase everything was still attached to it: brakes, suspension, gearbox, HD controller, petrol pump, alternator and so on!

The water pump had already been removed by another person.

The picture above dates from the beginning of 2009, after disassembling the combination engine and gearbox of an early demolition – Citroën ID19 with long stroke engine and 4-speed gearbox.

The approach

The long flanges of the 4-gear box must be removed, the ends of the flanges (side of the gearbox) must be turned to fit the bushes that will be placed in the turned flanges. This is necessary because the bearings and seals are not available in outer dimensions that simply fit into the inside of the shortened flanges.
New bearings and new oil seals are locked in the bushings in the turned flanges.

The axle end ‘claws’ are turned down with approx. 1 mm to a commercially available inner dimension for a bearing and barrier. (35mm shaft thickness)
The flanges are machined down with 3 mm in order to be able to mount the ash claws on the TA internal gearbox shafts.


A stainless steel bushing is rotated to tighten the outgoing internal TA-axis in the ID crown wheel. In other conversions this bus is usually not placed, but the lateral pressure at the end of this shaft is without pass-bus to my view too large to be able to drive for a very long time without wear and tear. The bus has an oil groove on the rotating inside. This bus is needed on one side of the donor ID-crowned wheel and is tightly shrunk in the crown wheel. The ID-axis rotates tightly in the ID crown wheel and is slightly thicker than the TA-axis. The difference in thickness is corrected by the stainless steel pas-bus.

In addition to the solution as described in the above article with corresponding picture above the article from Robert Williams CLICK FOR DOWNLOAD, I added single ball-bearings as far as possible to the right in the above picture, just like the ones that are used in the original ID situation.

The TA’s satellite wheels, internal axles and differential housing are reused.

The satellite wheel (of course matching the pinion cog of the ID box) comes from the ID donor box.
After the conversion, you will have to determine the preload on the Timken bearings again and make new fit rings in order to mount the whole with the correct preload in the ‘clock’.
Measure the play of the crown wheel according to the workshop manual, and so on.
This solution is robust and will not break or wear out excessively. Operating the gears was also an important point for me, because the Traction Avant has a different shift sequence as standard and the well-known ‘conversion’ to a 4-speed gearbox all have an extra button or lever to control the reverse of the gearbox. I chose to rebuild everything in such a way that a regular H-fork 4-speed + reverse operation is created:

  • via the original shifting rods of the TA
  • by converting the selector/levier into the cabin
  • by converting the control levers at the bottom of the gearbox to the original operation of the 4-speed gearbox with new shifting rods ‘outside’.

Removed the gearbox external shafts and continued working with the flanges.

Above you can see how I am turning the bushings for the flanges, in which the new bearing and the new oil seal will be mounted.

Here the heart is removed from an old ID-19 clutch plate to serve as an extension of another matching plate. For ease of use I used a new TA plate, an ID plate is also possible in principle but then the keyways have to be in line with each other so that the plate can slide freely over the primary axis. This action is necessary because the primary shaft of the 4-bucket is shorter than the shaft of the 3-bucket and the keyway of the shaft is just not far enough in the keyway of a standard clutch plate to transfer the force to the plate without damage.

On the picture above it may not be clearly visible, but the bushings are locked to the flanges with stainless steel screw/spikes so that they can’t move and/or turn. Then the flange is turned on the outside to make room for the convex protruding parts of the 10mm threaded ends of the shaft claws.

Here the flange, in the above picture, was not yet turned down.

In order to fit the bearing caps, they are very carefully turned out in counter arrangement in the lathe to the size of the Timken bearings.

Above you see a reworked flange with bushing, oil seal and bearing, mounted between gearbox and clutch housing.

Next job: Extend the drive shaft to the pulley of the ID motor. The extension of this shaft was necessary because at the same time as mounting the 4-speed gearbox I built in a longstroke ID motor. The end of this drive shaft towards the crankshaft is slightly thicker than on the Traction motor and the shaft is slightly deeper embedded in the ID-motor. See the picture below where the already prepared TA-axle is above and the ID-axle is lower.

Top: Extended custom pulley shaft ready for mounting

Above you can see the heart of the ID clutch pad with ID keyway of a demolished clutch disc mounted on a new TA clutch disc. The welding is done with the specially made fitting rod I made to adapt from ID to TA sizes and it is tightly pressed into both keyways. This bushing is only removed after it has cooled down completely . To ensure good adhesion, the welding work was first done with CO2 and later grounded out in 3 places, the sleeve was put back in place and welded again with MIG. After that I had the welding checked for swings of the new keyway in relation to the clutch plate. Luckily that was well within the standard aceptable deviation.

Above you can see the required fit & fill plate made of 4mm thick aluminium with which I performed the 100% fit of the TA-bell housing to the ID-gearbox. The advantage of this solution is that the satellite housing also runs neatly free from the inside of the clutch bell housing and you don’t have to worry about a possible differential running against the clutch housing.

The reason for this necessary adjustment is the fact that the position (in the longitudinal direction) of the drive shafts on the TA in relation to the ID has just shifted 4 mm. The semi-circular recesses where the flanges fit the id gearbox and where the original oil seals fit the TA beel house are not equal to the ID on the bucket side versus the side of the clutch housing.

The shape of the original TA setup is exactly the same on both sides (bell house and gearbox side). On the ID body the hole for the flange is 4mm shallower on the bell house side and 4mm deeper on the ID gearbox side. With a fitting plate between the ID gearbox and the TA- bell/coupling housing, the non-circular shape is compensated by adding 4 mm so that the pure round flanges fit exactly into the (again) round hole. 

I had to completely adjust the levers of the gear control on the underside of the shifting tower so that the newly developed rods can be operated for the ID gearbox. It took some thinking and trying but this solution works fine! As you can see on the picture, the ID pulley only fits just next to the right lever. By using this pulley I obviously had to switch to a narrower V-belt. That meant an adjustment of the water pump pulley, and the assembly of a 12 Volt alternator.

Above you can see the 4 mm fitting plate in detail. For the final assembly I used thin paper gasket on both sides of the passport plate. That turned out to be the only way to get everything put together leakproof.

The shifting rods between geartower (left) and gearlevers (right) to the selector in detail: A small extra challenge for me was that the carburettor, by placing the ID engine and the corresponding cylinder head, suddenly ran in the orbit of these shifting rods. With a water pipe bender I was able to keep the shifting rods exactly free of all fixed engine parts and it all fits just fine.

The gearbox without control rods mounted on the clutch housing. If you look closely, you’ll see that I still worked here with the original ID gearbox shafts, which I had shortened. In the end this solution didn’t work because the welded shafts would always break at the weld. Basically this solution is possible, but then you would have to make new shafts (or have them made).]

Above you can see the elongation of the primary axis by means of a bus that connects to the primary axis. This bus comes between the primary axis and the top bearing of the engine’s crankshaft. The aim is to prevent the primary shaft from swinging. The bus on the picture was my prototype. There appear to be top bearings with different inner diameters in which the primary shaft fits and so here also, the practice was (again) my teacher.

Clutch plate in the (flush mounted) attachment ring of the newly installed diaphragm pressure group

And the entire pressure group with the clutch plate mounted and the protruding keyway of the clutch plate.

Coupling /bell housing with M10 bolts for securing the flanges. The M10 bolts are mounted through and through in the sidewalls of the housing. Earlier I experimented with other solutions but with threaded taps, bushings and the like I couldn’t get it sufficiently oil-tight. In the above way with rings and gaskets it is perfectly sealed!

This was a bit of a job: Making 1 new differential from donor parts of 2 differentials. In itself not difficult when you think about what will fit into what: Pignon of ID has been applied, so the satellite cog of ID has to be applied. The output shafts of the TA are used so the satellite gears of the TA have to be placed. The thinner output TA axis is placed in the satellite gear of the ID so a pas-bus must be pressed into the ID satellite wheel so that the TA axis can rotate freely but tightly in it. The Satellite housing of the TA is used (bowl-side where the gears are located) with the fixed (TA) axis attached to it. In the picture above you can see the satellite sprocket with free rotating output shaft in the lower left corner. In the lower right corner you can see the com-part of the satellite house with the satellite sprockets and fixed output shaft. The original TA differential works with axial shafts with keyways on the outside on which the TA shafts can be mounted externally. The advantage of this is that you can easily replace the large retaining rings of the TA body. In the picture above, the lower differential is the TA differential.  

Top: Ready and mounted differential. The fit in between bus is a good fit.

Above you can see the made fit-in between -bus with oil groove on the freely rotating inside.

Timing bearings tight but not too tight…

Converted switch selector/levier, in the experimental phase.

Turning the axle end ‘claw’ towards the commercially available bearing size

And the result.

Mounting bracket. I opted for a very robust design, because the motor/body/drive axles are all suspended from this point. Moreover, I have chosen to simply re-assemble the transverse parts of the drive unit to keep them strong enough.

Pay attention to the above: On the underside of the flanges I have grinded away about 2 cm of material on both sides. This is because these points protrude from the original TA gearbox. This brings them to the TA- cradle just above the passage of the drive shafts. So I had to remove some material. The number of times that I have mounted and disassembled the gearbox I can no longer determine, but it was at least so many times that I can now do it blindly and very quickly.

Above: Shows the removed material of the gearbox’s flanges: Handy to do before mounting!

Bearing for the axles-ends ‘claws’. I heated this part in the oven to 60 degrees for final assembly.

Ready.

Switch shafts. Left the movement up/down of the hand lever and right the movement left/right…

I had to unload a stub axle on one side, otherwise I couldn’t get the axles mounted on the bogie axles (flanges).

Taken during assembly: tighten the nut and so on. On the right you can see the transducer of the cruise control hanging away. The magnet is placed under the nut that is still loose with a bracket so that the recorder can see it at every turn.

Above the adapted levers of the underside of the switching tower.

And- the final assembly!

And-all available photo’s related to the above topic:

First MOT EVER (2006)

After 13 years of storage at the previous owner, the first MOT was quite a challenge.  Besides a non-moving engine, broken gearbox, broken exhaust, brakes, stub axle covers and the like, there was also a lot to be done on the electricity.

June 2006: In any case, there was a lot of visible sheet metal damage and…, the engine was stuck, the brakes didn’t work, not even the handbrake.

The front bumper was in the cab, the chrome on this car seemed to be completely exhausted, including the associated rust marks. In the boot that could hardly be opened there should be some spare material left.

Included in the sale were new front bumper mounts, because the front bumper was completely loose from the bumper mounts.

The good news: The bottom and the adhesion to the engine mounts at the front of the car was okay, the doors were good and above all: the bodywork was hard all around.

Nice detail was that the tubes on all visible parts were provided with the familiar small plastic caps, which shows that this car has ever had a complete anti-corrosion treatment, including injected tubular chassis. Also the underside of the chassis is completely covered with a thick layer of mud, possibly ML, Dinitrol or underseal. This layer is peeling off in different places.

In any case, it didn’t prevent the fenders from rusting through. At the places where the water splashes against the screens while driving, they have rotted well…

Anyway, the sale is closed and on July 1st I went to the previous owner, with a car ambulance and my purchase price.

The car is neatly registered in the Netherlands and was built in 1955 but only later imported into the Netherlands.

And… There you go, for the first time, with my own Traction Avant.

It was very hot and there were quite a few old people on the road on Sunday morning. I saw myself riding it. The first striking feature of this car is its respectable length, which leaves little room for tinkering at the front and rear of the car.

The garage is 5.3 meters long and 3.3. meters wide. The width is good, but lengthwise I moved the stuff in the back of the garage to a different place. The idea is to keep as much rubbish as possible out of the garage for the time being.

And… here we go: The first inspection! First we have to spray the release sprayer in the spark plug holes that have already been removed from the spark plugs, let it work in for a few minutes and hang it on the crank handle….

Repeated action and then injected every day for a week and hung on the pendulum, next to that rocking back and forth in 3rd gear. Nothing at all.

Expert advice requested. Advice is: Leave it for a few weeks with a lot of rust dissolver in the holes and occasionally a little movement in its gear.

I’m curious to see if this has given me some relief after my holiday, where I’m writing this now, so let’s have a look at the other things.

All moving body parts are treated with a rust solvent because everything was more or less stuck. That worked anyway.

Found some interesting things in the trunk of the car, so I now own the following extra:

Stove to be placed in front of the car (to be connected to the cooling circuit) with covers and air hoses;

3 full carburettors with intact membranes and nozzles etcetera;

Fully used workshop manual;

Oil bearing booklet for the 11 and 15;

Full gasket set including new head gasket

A large number of bolts and nutsHoses for everything

Clignoteur / lamp holders and defective caps

LampsRelay

The missing wooden window crank button from left rear

Sleeping bag

Flooring and so on

After careful selection, my junkbox was packed and I had 2 boxes with possibly useful parts left in the future.In the cabin

I discovered that the original upholstery under the red ribcoard covers still looks pretty good.

The lining of the doors with the holes in the control handles is different. I had already noticed that the window of the right front door is only attached to the control in the door with one attachment point.

The ventilation flap wouldn’t open either.

After careful study I discovered that this was just sprayed with lacquer. After a good touch and feel I started with the removal of all steel filler.

Apparently this car was once taken care of by a putty expert and after that it was mostly sprayed.

After removing the filler I was left with a body that didn’t really have that many holes in it, and certainly no holes in the wrong places. The holes in the body can be easily welded on with new sheet metal. That will happen. The left front mudguard looked like a disappointment because there was a lot of filler that had cracked at the bottom of the tip.

After removing the decorative point and removing all putty, a nice aluminium support was visible underneath the point where the putty was hanging on. Long live the doing-it-yourself-work! That goes off nicely. Order a new point, weld on and that’s it. This also brings back the shape stability of the entire front fender. Now you can push and move the middle part up and down a good centimetre vertically. there are no holes in the trunk, a lot of rust has been removed but all in all I just removed a quarter of the filling from my dustpan and can.

All rubbish has been removed from the inside and the first dents have been dented with the spherical hammer and counterstamp.

Then at least the model is neatly back in, so let’s look for a good rust converter because I don’t have the illusion anymore to make a new car out of it. Preservation now seems to be the best option for both the bottom and the superstructure.  On the internet I’ve seen a good tool with which you can edit the entire substructure by first cleaning everything, removing as much rust as possible and then applying this tool to it. This makes a connection with the corrosion on the steel, then seals it completely. My dream was to make the car bare and to kick the coque, but I’ll leave that for now. First I have to see if an MOT is in it in the long run. First I have to go on with the visible part of the outside: All rust spots were made bare with a putty knife and brushed with the steel brush on the drill. Then, with old-fashioned Noverox lubricated on top of it, it won’t rust for a while.

On such a gray car you know where you need to fix something, because the Noverox where it is corrosion forms a black part. The grill, bonnet, between the engine and the front wings, the front wings, doors, doorposts, gutters, rear window, suitcase, rear mudguards and so on have all been treated and all in all it was not that bad. In the meantime I tried to start with a battery once to get the engine loose, but you get it already: No result at all.

I wonder if the car was parked with the engine running. Just take a good look at the oil in the crankcase. I don’t know if you can draw any conclusions from this after about 13 to 20 years but the oil was at the right level and looked dark and used. Not like I know from my old Renault after a leaky head gasket: all white. Anyway, if the engine doesn’t come loose, it will have to come out anyway. Removing the head without further disassembly is no use, but on a closer inspection tour again. Apparently the previous tinkererer has already fixed up the front train because it is completely in the orange lead mixture, the kind that is so handy but that you can’t buy nowadays because of the environmental aspects.The carburettor was removed and the right 2 studs of the inlet/outlet manifold were turned off completely incompetently just in the head. That’s another nice job for the drill and the print set.

Broken off studs in cylinder head;  Fixed but in the rust remover. I might as well remove the manifolds and put all new studs in.

OK, that way you’ll get your chores done, but good.

If the engine has to be removed, the manifolds have to be removed anyway.  Maybe I’ll replace the valve seats for harder ones because of the unleaded gasoline, but then I’ll have to continue the inspection: All the original things you wouldn’t expect from a craft car are still there, like an original 2 litre oil can with mounting bracket and spring on the inside of the left bonnet, so just fill and charge the 6 Volt battery. There’s just a little bit of life left in it. Enough for the horns and lighting. But the clignoteur doesn’t work or just isn’t there. Just have to check the chassis- and coquenumber to see what the year and month of manufacture is. Well a nice detail is that the radiator is renewed, at least the inner part and that the original operation of the roll screen for the radiator still works flawlessly. After the necessary rust and careful help of the roller gauze worked very neatly as it was originally intended, then you do not want to have a thermostat anymore! To the parts dealer and there they had indeed still original brake fluid for TA and ID / DS early years. Was errug old bottle but still purchased. Price was still in guilders with old VAT rate but with what is yet to come I can use an old price! As long as the engine is still soaking in with the rust remover I will continue my discovery where I will restore everything I encounter as much as possible to its original state. First you have to apply the brakes. I’m still on an inspection tour under the car and that looks very tight. At all possible places with my priest and putty knife black sludge was removed but everywhere neat steel appears. It seems as if a whole new base plate has been put in it or that the car has just been very well maintained in this respect. Anyway, it’s a boost I need because with only negative messages it doesn’t get very far either. By the way, I still have to order new license plates, at least one because on the front there’s one where the plastic letters have largely disappeared. And oh well, my license plate part 1 is almost torn and a part of the paper has perished. I don’t know which text I’m missing but the serial number and stuff is still on it. I will send a request asap to the RDW for replacement of part 1. Luckily you don’t really need that when transferring, at least not at the second office of post offices like where I was.

Original license paper(s) (from 1970, import date in NL) part 1

In any case, I’ll cover the door panels, because that doesn’t look like it with those holes in it.

Then I can take care of the window mechanisms right away. I still have to figure out how to remove the door handle and window handle, but I have such a handy workshop manual for that which doesn’t contain it. So let’s have a good look at what the trick consists of: A hidden spring or just pulling hard….30-7-2006Sunday, time for reflection…Last week the tumbler shaft was removed, you never know…The engine is still stuck. By now the brakes at the rear in terms of piping have been replaced from steel to copper, at least where that was bad. Eventually it turned out to be only the pipe from left rear wheel to right rear wheel. It is attached to the rear axle with 3 clamps. Of course there will be leaks under the middle clamp, in the middle of the rear axle.overall condition of the rear floor is okay, with the exception of the left noose of the petrol tank, which is stuck with rope. The new way to loosen the engine is as follows: Take Carterpan out while the engine is still in it. If the pan can be removed it is important to remove the connecting rods one by one (first remove the oil pump?) and make the pistons moveable. I have the time so I should be able to do it this way, as long as the crankcase pan can be removed while the engine is still in the car.Be reluctant to remove the head. When I checked the water level was still above the cylinder head, so I assume that the head gasket doesn’t leak and so I’d better stay away from the head. If I can’t get the pistons etc loose with the engine in the car, there’s still the option to remove the head and remove the pistons including the connecting rods and wet bushings. First you have to notice of course but the condition remains that the crankcase has to be removed with the engine still in the car, I have removed the cover of the front doors. There was a lot of rust in the front right door AND at this door the window mechanism is broken. Must have a new rail in the bottom window. The rest is OK. I wonder if such a rail is for sale separately. It looks like a clamping rail around the steel edge at the bottom of the window. I also mounted the bumper supports and the bumper last week. Key cap 41 and just hang on the coquemoirs. Takes two hours to get both of them loose. Good stuff that rust solver. In the meantime all the gunk a bit removed from the triangles and other parts that go to the front wheels. I also found 12 lubrication points that I lubricated right away. It wasn’t too bad that I didn’t have to put a lot in it to make the gunk look like anything else. That’s a good sign because there was still some compound in the stub axles and bushes. Thought about what to do.Carterpan removed.

Took off the crankcase pan;

Checked the bottom of the cylinderbusses. At the front 3 cylinders the release fluid was running along the pistons, the rear one was completely dry.

Bottom-inner 3rd cilincer that was nice and oil-like

The bottom-inner 4th cylinder was now still firmly attachedControl rod of rear piston loosened, with the bolts still in the conrod.

The crankshaft moves when pressure is applied.

The first 3 pistons are loosened, the rear piston is fixed again, the water is drained out via a drain plug in the side of the block, the head was already removed, the head was removed including the water pump.

Disassembled cylinder head incl. water pump Cylinders and pistons AFTER the release operation, just before mounting the new cylinder head And yes, the cause of all misery: Leaky head gasket in the far right corner (as seen from the driver) at the rear (4th) cylinder, so rust in this cylinder but luckily the piston is almost in the bottom. Clean but look at the damage.Cylinder wall slightly rusted but no holes or corrosion. With 400 waterproof sandpaper you can gently remove the rust. Wet cans secured with rings and bolts so they don’t come loose by accident when the pistons are moving. Bottom of the cylinders sprayed with rust dissolver.With a block of soft round wood and a copper fist we very carefully tapped the 4th piston down.  Oil on the pistons and from the bottom the piston with a block of soft wood gently with a copper fist the 4th piston upwards.  Repeated this action a couple of times, where after the first time everything went noticeably smoother and then turned via the starting crank until everything went smoothly.After a good cleaning of the piston-tops, the cylinder head, valves and cleaning of the block and head where the gasket is to be placed, new head gasket smeared with oil and mounted, head on top and mounted.Tumbler shaft mounted, push rods mounted, valves set to cold on 0.4 mm.New crankcase pan gaskets mounted. Carterpan on again, manifold on again, that had to be taken off because the previous keyaar had broken 3 studs. So all new studs in and mounted again. I had left the water pump at the head, so that was all right.I put on ignition, put spark plugs in, bought water in the cooling system.bought the battery, 6 Volt of course, and connected.And… just start it.But only puffs and no nice roaring engine noise at all.well, just think about it….  What about it again, you need carburation, ignition and… Compression! The first 2 worked. So let’s measure the compression…  And yes, with cylinder 1 it was already a problem with compression of 1 bar.  Of course, such an engine never runs with it.  The 2nd one was a bit better and number 3 and 4 both 3 bar, so let’s put some oil on it (the pistons) and measure it again.  That means a problem with the cylinder head.  Head taken off, luckily I now know how to do that. Head made completely bald, all protruding parts removed and put in the back of the car.

Water pump (2 nice green painted parts) and manifold

When I bought a revision head from CTA, I could also drive on unleaded gasoline.

Still in plastic packed overhaul-cylinderhead

Head at home with new gasket mounted (and water pump, manifold, rocker shaft, push rods, valves, carburettor, etc…, splash of gasoline poured in the carburettor hole) and… Start in one go!

Moving images! Fuel pump connected, fuel in the tank, filter in between, start and… Carburettor adjusted to idle speed. Runs fantastic stable slowly, let it run for an hour and let it cool down.  Spark plugs removed and compression measured.  Each cylinder between 6 and 6,5 Bar.  LightingAll lights checked and replaced where necessary, clignoteur mounted. First test drive On Sunday morning the time had come: Nice and quiet on the road so let’s see how it goes. By now the car is insured because that’s very handy when it goes to the MOT in a minute, driving is possible, the clutch bites a lot. Shifting goes well if you do it very slowly. The second gear makes a strange noise. Braking is just scary: In addition to the different sounds, the car pulls all the way to the left. When I get back, I decided to do the following first: Brakes, gearbox/gears, clutch plates, clutch clutch cleaners, diff shafts oil seals, diff shafts and short shaft nuts were found to be loose on the differential. Oops, luckily I made a short test drive….I bought a brake wheel after-tractor because with my universal tractors I can’t do it. They are very hard on the inside. No pits or anything like that.  New cups and dust caps mounted. Pipes are OK. New liners mounted.

Lining of left front wheel largely simply disappeared; remainder worn out to halfway the copper rivets

Brake lining very thin Test drive made.  Halfway more and more noise when the bucket is in 2 state. Further only driven in 1 and 3 and quickly went home. Brakes are doing well. Still has to do the rear wheels in terms of brakes. gearbox jack under crankcase (with a lot of stop wood) and jack under clutch housing All removed first: bonnet, grill, horns and radiator guard, radiator, fan fan, pulley of the drive shaft for water pump e.e., subframe.

Before the major disassembly operation of the bucket, clutch, drive.

When the gearbox cover was removed, 2 teeth of the 2nd gear cog on the primary shaft were disappeared. OK. A bit of a disappointment. I found both the missing teeth at the bottom of the gearbox. 1 is old damage and 1 is test drive damage. Sprocket ordered from the TAN club 2nd hand.

That’s how bad it can be in a gearbox. Play on the bearings measured and is all within standard. To remove primary shaft must remove crown wheel. Entire ‘clock’ removed.

Beautiful original green painted

10-9-2006: Replaced the clutch plates. The clutch housing has been removed, cleaned and sprayed green.  Replace the difficult M7 bolts next to the drive shaft for the water pump and alternator with Imbus M8. The 2 holes in the clutch housing drilled to 8 mm and the thread in the engine block drilled to 7 mm and tapped on M8 metric.

Cross-shaped piece after thorough cleaning, reusable as a paperweight

The bearings are cleaned completely and compounded. New spring that retracts thrust bearing mounted because it was gone. Pressure group cleaned with compressed air. Clutch surfaces cleaned of pressure group and flywheel. New clutch plates mounted.

Clutch housing mounted.

17-9-2006: 2nd gear sprocket mounted again,

Primary axle with mounted 2nd gear, above the axle is the synchronizer and on the right the 3rd gear. On the left just above the axle the gearwheel for 1st or reverse.Primary axle in it, pinpoint clearance set at 1.3 mm between pinion and satellite housing by removing 2 shims and at the same time inserting the gasket on the front of the gearbox of secondary axle.

Pignon.

Front of the gearbox with (top) mounted primary axle and (bottom) secondary pinion axle.

Shim and bearing housing secondary shaft , Shims and feeler gauges for measuring pinion clearance
20-9-2006: Crown wheel play set at 0.2 mm by means of the settings of the differential thrust bearings.

Measurement practice in my brother’s garage

And the theory from the original workshop manual Differential parts mounted with new retaining rings. Gaskets fitted between the clutch housing and gearbox, gearbox fitted,

Sliding the bucket onto the clutch housing. The short drive axles are still loose in relation to the differential. Connections between diffusers and drive shafts connected with new M8 locknuts. Then everything is reassembled: Flywheel, dynamo, water pump pulley, shifting rods, protection plate, gearbox cover with new gasket, oil refilled, all with new bolts and nuts mounted.radiator mounted, car cleaned and stripped of all grease and grease.All rust removed, Fertan applied, rinsed and gray Bodyschutz applied to all parts that I can no longer access later.

Car mounted so far that the engine is running again and everything can be tried outThe people of the RDW have very neatly picked it up and made a new one without additional costs against return of the previous version. Nice test drive on a very sunny Friday afternoon 22 September 2006. Thought of everything but still forgot to bring gasoline. The tank was leaking and so I stopped after about 4 kilometers. Luckily a helpful brother who arrived on the bike with 5 liters of spare fuel. Put some gasoline in it, start up again and go go go!

On the way I lost some oil because the valve cover gasket was made of rubber: such a beautiful new one, about 2 centimetres longer. The fuel tank leaked so badly that it completely emptied out, and I drove home with a hose in the spare tank. The positive news: Braking, steering, (dis)clutching and shifting like a sunshine. Road handling fine, no strange noises from the engine or gearbox, etc. Still have to check the carburettor for acceleration pump and sprinklers because idle is fine, full throttle is fine but in between it’s a bump and that’s a shame. Meanwhile the air horn has been repaired and that’s a nice way to get back on the road. In the meantime all instruments and control lights have been replaced, the cockpit lights have been replaced and a real steering switch has been installed for the driver. Replaced the light in the original switch.Antenna mounted for the 6 Volt Philips car radio which also works nice and original.

Inside with the included ribcoard (red) seat covers and the original upholstery of course, with here and there a wear spot.

Back-side view in the garage

Side-view in the garage 2-10 to 9-10-2006:

Rear brake linings, wheel brake cylinders, replace lines

Repaired airhorn

Oil pressure gauge and water temperature gauge or sensors mounted

Front and rear brakes replace flex parts
Hole in inner shield at the right rear, welded closed
Replace carburettor because car jolts and jolts when idling and accelerating

Hole in floor in front right : plate point welded
New flexible hoses for vacuum advance fitted WITH clamp on ignition connection

Defective noose under petrol tank repaired and petrol tank replaced

Replace Exhaust
Towbar mounted

Ventilation grille rusted and temporarily painted
Steering wheel replaced by newly purchased original steering wheel
Bottom side of the car should be cleared, Fertan on it, rinsed and sprayed in grey bodyschutz

Reverse lamp, cabling and switch installed

Fog lamp, cabling and switch installed
Washing, colouring and reapplying: red chair covers

Original heater connection mounted on radiator
Replacing windscreen wipers
New power distributor complete with socket, new spark plugs, ignition cables

Leather dust covers steering system mounted
Replace the rear flashing lamps and fit 25 Watt lamps.
Lemon plate mounted
New ignition coil
Body repainted on rusty parts
Upholstery floor for front seats fitted (temporary)
Valves set
Inflammation set

MOT done on 12-10-2006; NOGO
Actions taken on the basis of MOT (14-10 to 30/10/2006):
B41572011

001: Identification number 11B 415027 found on a coque (original is therefore broken upside down and difficult to read)!

111: Flashlight caps turn signals for changing from white to orange

BEFORE

AFTER

502: Replace 4 pieces of grease bags stub axles L+R at the bottom + at the top.
112: Headlight front left replaced by new glass and a new (56 years old still new in original box, cost 109 Euro) mirror, both headlights are notified at the same time.
801: Replace the right rear wheel with a spare wheel and the brakes at the right rear are loosened slightly due to a slight acceleration.

502: Bronze bushings in triangle weld looks like steel on steel but this is original bronze on iron so no action is needed, there is no play on the bushings, but there is some lateral play within the norm. Only a lot of lubrication is needed

702: Steering balls L+R grease (steel+rolled rubber ring) replaced, lubricated
702: Steering balls L+R adjusted for > 1 mm clearance

Replace and adjust the end stop (adjustable part) of the left hand side steering section.

Exhaust with extra support attached to gearbox

Driving on Sunday 15-10-2006

Ordered 13-11-2006:

Air filter rubber carburettor 11D

Carburettor repair set Solex 32/34 PBIC4 pieces

Fuseekogel key 11CV

Pedal rubber brake/clutch

Spatboard piping, gloss black Ø7mm

Spraybox window frames light grey

Dynamo alternating current 7.4V/35Amp + support

Spressure regulator electronic 7V

Later still done (2007):

Body where necessary spraying in gray (original color)

Upholstery and felt bottom and side / under dashboard is ordered 5-10-2006 at CTA

Purchases inner decorative caps chrome

Tank cap with lock

6 to 12 Volt converter

Better sound, radio and CD with MP3

heater mounted (Clayton) and windscreen heater connected

Fenders fully repaired and painted black

Restoration of the body shell plate in original color

Printed seat/bench upholstery and door cladding panels has been purchased, must be installed again, after all rust has been removed and the roof cladding has been removed

Ready to drive – Completely finished but still working on the upholstery and the fenders. In this picture the holes in the mudguards have been provisionally closed, in which a few times 200 kilometres have been driven in a row without any problems.Total driven about 2000 kilometres until April 2007.From the beginning of April 2007 we started to refurbish the outside of the car. See the next pictures.  In addition, some work to do on the brakes because the return is too stiff, causing the brakes to heat up in traffic jams.  The front wheel bearings also need to be adjusted because there is some wheel play.  The mounted thermostat does its job well but because of 1 splash of hot water in the radiator, the final level in the radiator is about 5 centimeters below the top edge. This turns out to be sufficient in practice. Despite the thermostat, the radiator roller hat has proved necessary in the winter.PS: 1 small hole has been drilled in the thermostat in order to keep the circulation running a little bit. The welding and spraying work10 until 30 April 2007:Mudguards disassembled.First everything as bare as possible, Fertan on top of it, let it work out and rinsed off.Made bald around the holes. Bad parts ground out.1 Replacement part welded in (point left for mudguard)For all parts to be replaced, knocked out body steel of 1.5 mm, welded in and welded in (MIG)Grinded where necessaryBrushed with INOX, both inside and outside, against rust of the welding workPlastered with 2K, sanded in model with 120 and 180Spray puttyFine putty, flat-grinded with 600 and 800Black 2K lacquer on it.Mudguards with new piping fitted.

After the mudguards it’s the turn of the body, all the rusted spots cleared, Fertan welded on, where necessary, and then polished.then putty, sanding, stuffing, sanding, etc.Spray putty on and then the (most) original colour on top of it.reassemble everything, polish it and then drive it proudly! That all sounds more simple than it has taken about 3 months time anyway…

July 2007: After the paint job on the body it was enough, the trunk, hood and grill will be replaced next time. All rust on the grill, trunk and hood has been preserved and the bare spots have been painted as a temporary measure.The headlight brackets have been replaced by aluminium polished brackets.After spraying the trunk, hood and grill, the replacement of the interior will take place…Probably in the winter of 2007/2008.