Aluminum repair

The long-stroke ID-motor I once got in Zwolle from a (I thought 56’er) ID that the driver had driven for a short time.

The modified engine and gearbox were later placed in my Traction Avant and both work very well!

The engine and gearbox were undamaged when I picked them up after disassembly so I took them home in the trailer behind the DS.

But–no motorbike underneath of course so somewhere on the road suddenly a lot of oil in the trailer….

A lot of fiddling with cloths and stuff, and when I got home the drain of the crankcase pan appeared to be torn in.

Only much later I removed the crankcase pan and placed the original TA crankcase pan on the engine.

From the engine I shortened the crankshaft, changed the camshaft and so on.

But I got stuck with a broken aluminum crankcase.

At a webshop I bought a set to solder aluminium and I started with it.

Since I can also solder with tin and copper, so how difficult can it be?

Well,… There was more to it than I thought.

To start with, the workpiece, in my case the crankcase pan, must be at the right temperature and should not cool down too quickly, especially after soldering.  Because then the connection of solder to aluminium will tear apart again.

In addition, all parts to be soldered with the stainless steel brush have to be completely cleaned, otherwise the solder mass (rod) will not stick together.

Use a clean flame for the soldering work.  It can be done with a blue flame from the gas burner, preferably a directed flame.

And then … Well, see below the result.

The soldering is stronger than aluminium, so that’s okay.  It is leakproof and can easily handle the temperature of the crankcase oil…

Project  successfull!


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